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Nicky Perry HIV Hero talks to Gscene

Amid a climate of fear and ignorance, some healthcare workers went out of their way to provide support and care for patients with HIV.  One still living in Brighton tells their story to Jaq Bayles

An ambulance pulls up to a hospital, dispatching medics in full ‘space suits’ to drop a patient at the doors before fleeing the scene in the vehicle, which will now be out of commission for a full day while it’s fumigated.

It’s a scenario that has become a familiar sight on news bulletins in recent weeks, but this isn’t the potentially deadly airborne Coronavirus 2020 – this is the height of the HIV epidemic in the late 1980s.

At the time, non-specialist healthcare staff could be expected to walk out on their work should a patient wander onto the ‘wrong’ ward, such was the fear and stigma surrounding the disease. Of course, much more is known about the causes of transmission now, but back then it was considered a threat to the general population, a disease that might be contracted if you so much as looked at someone who was afflicted.

Yet at the forefront of patient care were people who dismissed these fears and went out of their way to preserve the welfare and dignity of their charges in the face of sometimes blinding ignorance.

One such person is Nicky Perry, now operational manager (Clinical Trials Unit), Brighton & Sussex Medical School, who recently finished a project that involved interviewing 61 healthcare workers who were involved in HIV care in those early times.

“I started nursing in 1988 in HIV at Chelsea & Westminster Hospital (previously St Stephens),” recounts Nicky. “I was doing agency work and they rang me one day and said they needed someone to go and do an early shift, but they had to warn me it was ‘on the Aids ward’ – they actually whispered it down the phone.”

Nicky was one of a close-knit team of healthcare professionals working on the specialist HIV Thomas Macaulay ward, and her story of that time is uplifting and depressing in equal measures.

“I had done cancer nursing so had worked with people who were dying and thought, how different can it be?” she says. “I went to do a shift on 17 June 1988 and didn’t leave. It was a bit of a revelation that nursing could be so holistic.

“Back then healthcare was medically driven – you did what the doctors told you. It was very hierarchical but HIV turned that on its head. For the first time you were on a ward and nobody knew what they were doing, everyone sought advice and support from each other. We actually asked patients what they wanted and they told us how they wanted to be cared for. We were all in it together, nobody had the answer.”

The doctors gave way to nurses when they realised how much better equipped they were to support the patients because they had more experience of talking to them about death and dying

“There would be top consultants saying: ‘Nicky I don’t know what to do – can you go and speak to someone. But we felt like family – it was fun, the people were just lovely. We all got on. We were caring for the patients but they really cared about us, so there was that lowering of boundaries. Patients became our friends, they were in the same age group and peer group. They were coming in repeatedly so we were getting to know them and their partners.”

Ignorance was a great driver of people’s fear, but it was also that which led others to say: “We have to make a difference and protect these people from the stigma and discrimination and make somewhere safe for them.”

Nicky continues: “There was stigma but it was born out of fear and uncertainty, even within our own healthcare profession. There was public fear and anxiety but we were also trying to make it better.

“Our job was to make people feel safe and cared for. We were dealing with patients’ families – it was so multi-layered. As well as this horrible disease people were dying from there was the family dynamic. People saying ‘I have not seen my parents for years, I told them I was gay and they threw me out’. Or ‘I haven’t told them and now I have to tell them I am gay and dying.’

The Thomas Macaulay ward’s patients were predominantly gay men and Nicky recalls how many families “were really horrible to their sons or didn’t acknowledge their partners. We were family counsellors too”.

But, paradoxically, the fact that many wanted to wash their hands of HIV worked in favour of those who were invested in helping their patients.

“Stigma was a barrier but we were allowed to get on and do what we wanted to do,” recalls Nicky. “Management said Thomas Macaulay is an Aids ward, we will let them get on with it. People were just glad someone was sorting it out and they didn’t have to bother. We could be somewhat maverick in the way we cared. If someone wanted to smoke a spliff because it was the last spliff they were ever going to have, it was like ‘fill your boots mate’, or ‘let your partner sleep over’. You could not have done that on a medical ward.”

And when the authorities finally stepped in, no matter how misguided the images of tombstones and icebergs accompanying the Don’t Die of Ignorance campaign may have been, “it was the first time the government came together” – with the exception of the Tories as Margaret Thatcher didn’t approve.

That collaborative work, which pulled together many organisations, led to everyone giving the same message and began to change the landscape for everyone involved in HIV and Aids work.

“We often didn’t tell our friends or families what we did for a living because we also faced that stigma of working with HIV,” says Nicky. “We were never quite sure what people’s reactions would be. That’s why we formed such strong relationships with each other, because we were in a safe bubble.”

It was a bubble that extended outside of work. “If I was out people would ask what I did and I’d say ‘I’m a nurse’ and they would be interested , then I would say I worked on an Aids ward and you’ve never seen them run so fast. A lot of us hung out at gay places because they understood. On a Saturday night in straight places. sometimes people were genuinely interested but I didn’t want to be giving them sex education lessons. I would rather go to Heaven than the Empire on Leicester Square.”

After two and a half years on the ward Nicky moved into HIV research, so how is the climate now?

“The stigma about having HIV still exists and that is probably the biggest killer. People don’t want to come for testing. You can tell your employer you have cancer but HIV is still seen as somehow you have done something bad and that’s why you have it.”

You can see a summary of Health Care Workers in HIV: An oral history in the UK Aids era and listen to some clips here:  

Photos by Gideon Mendel, taken from The Ward, published by Trolley Press

 

The little giant Elaine Evans has been supporting the LGBTQ+ community in a variety of ways for many years.

The little giant

Elaine Evans has been supporting the LGBTQ+ community in a variety of ways for many years. She talks Jaq Bayles through her life as an ally

At almost any given LGBTQ+ fundraising event chances are the diminutive figure of Elaine Evans BEM will be seen weaving her way through the crowds, smiling sweetly and rattling her collection box.

“I love shaking boxes and getting money out of people. I don’t try to push them but they find it appealing, this little old lady coming up and asking for donations.”

‘Little’ she may be, but what this 82-year-old lacks in stature she makes up for in presence, dedication and zest for life, and much of that has, for many years, been directed at supporting the LGBTQ+ community.

Last year Elaine was awarded a Golden Handbag for her contribution to the community as an ally, following which she said: “What an honour to receive the Golden Handbag LGBT Allies award. When I thought about it on the bus the next day, I started to cry. I receive so much love, kindness and support from the LGBT community, they deserve an award.”

Having lived in Brighton & Hove since the age of 11, Elaine’s introduction to the LGBTQ+ world was somewhat circuitous. It all started with the school of English she set up in the early 1970s and which, by 1976, was big enough for her to buy her own premises in Portland Road.

“As the school got bigger I had to stop teaching in order to run it and had to employ more teachers. When I used to look at the CV if it ever said they were into amateur dramatics or something like that I would think ‘Oh good’. When you’re in the classroom you need to be able to get the students’ attention and keep it, so if you are used to amateur dramatics you have a sort of way as an actor with audiences. It helps a lot if people are very big on personality,” says Elaine.

“It didn’t matter to me if they were straight, gay or anything. I used to ask for feedback from students and we had a very camp man who taught teenagers in the summer. He had such a way with him and used to get top marks from his class – I knew he was gay without even asking. Another time a secretary said her partner was giving her a lift home and I was quite surprised when a young woman walked in. But I thought so what?

“I’ve never had any feelings that it wasn’t good.”

While running the school Elaine witnessed the coming out of teenage boys who were subsequently kicked out of their family homes. She shakes her head: “It’s so unfair. I love the song I Am What I Am – you are what you are born.”

Some 30 years ago her husband, Steve, got the couple into karaoke – a world that would eventually become the jumping off point for the real beginning of Elaine’s immersion into the LGBTQ+ community.

“Steve died in 2006 and for two years I was deeply unhappy and stayed indoors. Then one day I thought I would like to go to karaoke, but I didn’t want to go to a straight bar because I didn’t want to get chatted up. So I went to the Queens Arms where Betty Swollocks was hosting and it was mostly gay men. On the other side of the road was Poison Ivy and they used to have karaoke as well. Then I heard about the Bedford Tavern so I started going in there and I gradually got to become known.”

But it was while volunteering to provide refreshments for runners in the half marathon that Elaine fell into the fundraising side of things.

“This fella came along and I noticed he was wearing a Sussex Beacon T-shirt. I always took some cash so with me to offer someone who had made that special effort and was raising money for a good cause, so I asked him if I could donate a fiver I had. He gave me a Bear Patrol (LGBT social/leisure networking group which strongly supports the Beacon) badge, which was what got me introduced to that.”

She started turning up to fundraising events and also got involved in The Martin Fisher Foundation, working towards zero HIV in Brighton and Hove – then came Pride.

A staunch supporter of the parade, she would take her students – teens of all nationalities – to watch the event. Some of them were from countries whose laws were not particularly inclusive of LGBTQ+ people and she would take the opportunity to educate them on the importance of inclusivity.

Pride meant – and still means – a great deal to her and her fundraising efforts went well beyond box shaking. Even while recovering from a back operation she determined to undertake the Pride Rainbow Run in Preston Park. “I was pushing my Rollator and was determined to do it. It was more a Rainbow hobble than a Rainbow Run, but I did that two years running.”

Among the other LGBTQ+ feathers in her hat, Elaine has been a Gold Friend of The Actually Gay Men’s Chorus for 12 years and became a sponsor of the Brighton Gay Men’s Chorus last year.

She was featured in Gscene back in January 2017 on account of her distributing the magazine in Spain, where she had a flat just down the coast from Benidorm. “We used to go there for entertainment. There was a very nice gay café on the seafront and they said they got people in from Brighton and I said I must bring Gscene over for them. I used to take five issues each month. I told James I had been doing it for three years and he ran the little article.”

Later this year Elaine will again feature in Miss Jason’s House Party – The Great British Gad About on Latest TV, in which she plays a somewhat deaf cocktail waitress who hands out drinks to the panel. So far she has featured in four series.

And as to the future? “Who knows what’s going to be up – I’m game for anything.”

 

Wild Adventures: Writer and historian Jill Gardiner talks poetry

Wild Adventures

Being a gay woman in the 1990s, with the fight against right-wing institutionalised homophobia at its height, was no walk in the park, but writer and historian Jill Gardiner found refuge in poetry, as she tells Jaq Bayles.

As first crushes go, being a six-year-old girl besotted with a nine-year-old girl playing Circe in the Long Voyage of Odysseus has to be up there.

“I knew what I felt,” says Jill Gardiner, whose recently published first book of poetry, With Some Wild Woman, sold out within four weeks of its Brighton launch and has gone into reprint.

The book spans 30 years of the author’s poetry, starting in 1989, at which point in time people could be sacked from work simply for being gay – and Jill found writing poems, particularly love odes, a way of counteracting the harsh realities of the wider world.

“By the time I got seriously involved with a woman it was the early 1990s and if it was known at work that you were gay you could get sacked.”

It was also common to be turned away from establishments that didn’t approve of same-sex relationships. “When we would go to a hotel, I would book a double room and my girlfriend would come in after with the luggage and we would get looks. We knew that they could turn us away so I was writing about the joy of being in love as an antidote to what was going on outside.”

Jill found some refuge among a group of Brighton poets, which was set up in 1992 and embraced her and her lifestyle. “It wasn’t a gay group but a very good space in which to workshop poems. People were very welcoming and interested in my life. We put on Brighton Ourstory shows and galvanised people to protest. Sometimes when you’re under attack it can unite you – but it’s not to be recommended.

“Sheila Jeffreys, academic and lesbian feminist, said somewhere about how good it was that we could be sexual outlaws, but it can also be very wearing. It’s certainly better for your mental health to not have to be that way.”

Jill is inspired by “love or death or women throughout history” and the poems in With Some Wild Woman all fall under one of those sections. The book is described as “a poetic journey through one woman’s life, which casts an honest and amused eye on growing up gay in a straight world, sharing stories of inspiring people encountered on the way – from uninhibited aunts to Bohemian French writers”.

As Jill has lived in Brighton for over 30 years, the local area features in some poems, including one about an amorous encounter in the garden of Monk’s House, Rodmell.

The journey through themes from love to death was a natural progression. “I wrote lots of love poems when I first got together with my girlfriend but then, more recently in later life, as family and friends died it set off another bout of poetry.

“But it’s got a lot of humour – not all the poems are poignant.” She gives as an example a poem that reflects an incident in the 1990s when Jill had been invited to the wedding of two gay men – not a legal affair in those days. After Sunday lunch she had to tell her family she needed to leave for a wedding. The response came: “On a Sunday evening?”

“My father said: ‘I hope it’s a man and a woman getting married.’ And so began the process of coming out to family.

“Poetry is authentic and honest,” says Jill. “You communicate something directly to people that moves them. That’s what I have found touching about the book. Poetry can be about expressing things that matter deeply but also injected with humour, as life is such a mixture. Humour helps convey things.”

Prior to the poems, Jill was feted for her book From The Closet To The Screen – Women At The Gateways Club 1945-85. She was drawn to the club as “the closest thing we had to a lesbian institution”, and indeed it was a feature in the 1968 film The Killing of Sister George, during which members of the club’s everyday clientele actually came out on screen.

“They were normal Gateways customers. It was very brave. We never know what’s going to happen in the future and we can never be certain there’s not going to be a resurgence of homophobia. It happens still now. So it’s important to be aware that the relative freedom we have now was hard won.”

Jill’s current project is writing a biography of writer and gay rights campaigner Maureen Duffy – “it’s a long-term project and not for publication in her lifetime.”

But that’s not to say there won’t be more poems. “I do just write. I can wake up in the morning and write for 20 minutes and I think: ‘Ah, so today’s going to be a poetry day.’ Other days I wake up and think: ‘What’s Maureen doing today?’”

More info or to buy the book see the publishers website here: 

Twitter /jill_gardiner

The Next Stage: Kathrine Smith’s new project about lesbians in the 1970s

The Next Stage

After winning major plaudits for her play about gay men’s lives in the 1960s, Kathrine Smith is gearing up a new project about lesbians in the 1970s. She talks about telling real stories to Jaq Bayles.

As she reflects on the success of her award-winning play, All I See Is You, Brighton-based TV, radio and theatre writer Kathrine Smith clearly still finds the audience reactions very touching.

“Wherever we went I received emails, mostly from men who had lived through the period of the play touched to see their story told. Sadly, it is still rare for our community to see representations of our lives on stage, which is why we need lots more queer stories.”

And the play – a love story between two men in Bolton in 1967 – has been to a lot of places. It was originally performed at last year’s Brighton Fringe before touring nationally and to the International Gay Theatre Festival in Dublin, where the actors won awards for outstanding performances and Kathrine won the Oscar Wilde Prize for Best New Writing.

The production also won the Brighton Fringe International Touring Bursary, which took it to Sydney and Melbourne Fringe Festivals in September. “It was incredibly moving to see how a story of queer men in 1960s Lancashire resonated with present day audiences across the world,” says Kathrine.

When asked the inevitable question of why she chose to write about gay men, she responds: “I get asked that a lot.” Of course she does – and, indeed, why shouldn’t she write about men? After all, it’s not like men don’t give voices to women when it comes to the arts.

Kathrine – who has written for, among others, EastEnders and The Bill and is currently writing for TV drama London Kills – cites some rather depressing statistics released in May 2018 by the Writers’ Guild of Great Britain, which show that only 16% of working film writers in the UK are female, and only 14% of prime-time TV is female-written. Ergo: “A lot of men are writing about women.”

Kathrine wrote All I See Is You for Bolton’s Octagon Theatre 50th Anniversary Prize (it won), and one of the reasons for the characters being male was that it was also the 50th anniversary of the partial decriminalisation of homosexuality, which of course affected men much more than women. She says all her ideas are based on real events and she’d been reading accounts of queer life in the 1960s when she saw the Octagon Prize advertised.

“But on a personal level I found it much easier to write about queer issues through the mask of men than I would women. Through the response to the play I now feel much more confident and open about writing about issues that are closer to home.”

All of which means a new play is in the offing. Kathrine is currently researching to write a play about lesbians in the 1970s and is hoping it will be finished this year.

“I love history and particularly enjoy telling stories inspired by real events in the queer community so that we don’t forget how hard equal rights were won.”

Hear Us Out: A celebration of the lives of older LGBTQ+ people

Hear Us Out

Later this year promises to be a fascinating festival. Jaq Bayles caught up with artistic director Dinos Aristidou to find out more.

Hailed as an ”ambitious two-year project, which aims to record and celebrate the stories of older LGBTQ+ people in south east England”, Celebrating Our Stories won’t hit its zenith until September 2020. But, in the meantime, there are plenty of opportunities to get a taste of what this New Writing South ‘verbatim theatre’ project, supported by Arts Council England and the Baring Foundation, is all about.

In a nutshell, the wide-reaching enterprise has involved people from all walks of LGBTQ+ life and encompassed a range of ages in its efforts to “celebrate and amplify the stories of the older members of our community”.

And its evolution has covered a variety of stages, from training, to story gathering, to story listening to performance, giving many people an opportunity to be involved and learn new skills.

The upcoming stage production, the Hear Us Out Festival, is the baby of artistic director Dinos Aristidou, whose enthusiasm for and pride in the project is palpable. “Because it’s a celebration it doesn’t mean it’s a strict story of a time. We felt very strongly that this would be a good time for affirming that after all the politics and identity issues,” he says. “We didn’t want it to be a reminiscing project but more about the people and their experiences. It has been diverse and very different and a challenge to find a common thread.”

The collecting of some 35 stories was undertaken by people who were trained as Story Gatherers to go out and record the stories of older LGBTQ+ people across the south east. Dinos continues: “We didn’t want people turning up and us asking them to tell their life story unprepared, so we got the material in advance in order to decide how to tell their life story.”

This involved clustering the storytelling around six themes: My Queer Identity; Home; Family; How We Have Changed the World (Straight); Celebration; and Folklore (stories we have told and stories we are told).

The volunteers were then encouraged to “tell uninterrupted stories so the performer hears the story and tells it as it is with hesitations, giggles, coughs etc.”

And this is the crux of how the festival will work. All the performers are telling someone else’s stories, but from that person’s own words, fed to the performer through headphones and repeated verbatim. “Your eyes deceive you because what you hear is not the person you see.

“Our history is one of what is not spoken as well as one that is,” adds Dinos. “A lot of people have been voiceless and not had a chance to tell their stories publicly. We wanted stories that had been unheard or not put together in someone’s head.

“There’s a lot to celebrate in terms of ‘here we are’. It’s not just reminiscing and affirming – it’s also making clear that we haven’t stopped. Just because someone is older doesn’t mean there still aren’t things they want to do.

“The other side is about giving older people the opportunity to develop their skills as performers and writers etc.”

The festival steering group comprised a mix of people of different ages who are either involved with older people or are older people. It resulted in a lot of energy, says Dinos: “It’s very joyous. These stories affirm our own experiences or make us think in a different way. There’s a lot of joy that comes from listening to these stories and it’s very much about listening. We are so used to images but listening to words is what it’s about.”

It has been a long, involved and fluid process, but the fruits will be evident. “Silence was our safety – we accommodated it. That was how we lived life. Young people’s experience now is both similar and very different. There’s a visibility but I don’t know to which extent it’s helpful or not. The piece will also be looking at what identity means at different points in time. What do words say, how do we read others people’s words? It’s been lovely. We’ve had some wonderful moments of connection. That’s what was joyous about the project.”

In the run-up to the September 19 main event at the Sallis Benney Theatre, the project will be presenting satellite performances, socials and talks in non-performance spaces such as residential homes, day centers, libraries and community centers.

And there’s still a chance to get involved as the project is looking to involve as many people as possible, especially over the age of 50 – performers, stage managers, lighting technicians, photographers and musicians. And no previous experience is required – the point is to try out something new.

more info

If you’re interested in taking part, contact: projectmanager@newwritingsouth.com

or diinos@newwritingsouth.com.

Note for your diary: Celebrating Our Stories event at the Sallis Benney Theatre, Brighton, Saturday, September 19, 2020.

Author Jane Traies has lived through some of the most defining moments of LGBTQ+ history

Time Travels

Author Jane Traies, who has lived through some of the most defining moments of LGBTQ+ history, tells Jaq Bayles how documenting the experiences of her contemporaries and those who came before changed her life.

History shapes everyone to an extent, but for Brighton-based Jane Traies – author of The Lives of Older Lesbians: Sexuality, Identity and the Life Course, and the recent Now You See Me: Lesbian Life Stories – engaging with the past in an intimate way ended up fashioning her future.

Formerly a school teacher for 35 years and now just turned 75, she found a whole new life when she began studying for a PhD in Gender Studies at Sussex University some nine years ago.

“When you’re a teacher you can’t imagine you’d ever be anything else in your life,” says Jane who, after retiring, “did all sorts of things”, including diversity training, consultancy, leadership coaching and moving to the Welsh Borders, where she ran a couple of cottages. But this latter move proved problematic when her long-term relationship broke down and she found herself single at the age of 60.

“If I’d known I was going to be single in my old age I would never have gone somewhere so remote. I was getting lonely and miserable and bored and a friend said ‘you should do something with your brain’.

“I chose a one-year course in Gender Studies at Birmingham and at the end of that year I was loving it and determined to go on to do a PhD. Someone said I should find a tutor whose work I appreciated and who was going to be sympathetic to what I wanted to do. I took a book off my shelf by Sussex University professor Sally Munt and wrote to ask if she’d agree to be my tutor. For the next two terms I drove down from Shropshire to Brighton every week – it took five hours each way on a good day but it was one of the best things I have ever done.”

While she inevitably ended up moving south, that level of commitment is characteristic of a woman determined to keep unearthing the untold stories of the lesbians who lived without the freedoms enjoyed by many today.

“As part of my post-grad work I did a lot of oral history – that was the magic thing. I interviewed all these older women who identified as lesbians – the oldest born in 1919, the youngest in 1950.” And these accounts were the inspiration for and basis of her book Now You See Me: Lesbian Life Stories, which was published some 18 months ago and is already on its third reprint.

“A couple of years ago I picked up on some stories I had only used fragments of in my research because I wanted to give something back to those women who had given to me. I thought I was only writing the book for our community but it sold and sold and is still bouncing off the shelves at Gay’s The Word.

Inevitably Jane encounters questions about her use of the word ‘lesbian’ in today’s lexicon of alternative language, and she recalls meeting a young woman who had done some research on how teenagers today identify themselves: “They identified as everything from queer to gay to trans etc – there was even Sapphic and, here’s a blast from the past, woman-loving-woman – but not one identified as lesbian.”

But she points out that under the LGBTQ+ umbrella she tries to keep the voices of the women whose histories she traces as “we can only define ourselves with the words and identities that our historical time gives us”.

“Women born in the 1920s, 30s, 40s didn’t have ideas or words such as non-binary or gender fluid etc, which may have been very helpful”

Equally she believes that having access to the hard-won rights of a newer generation would inevitably have changed the course of the lives of some of these women. “There are women now of my age who are butch lesbians, but if they had been born 40 years later that might not have been the case. Women born in the 1920s, 30s, 40s didn’t have ideas or words such as non-binary or gender fluid etc, which may have been very helpful.”

Many of the women she interviewed had lived their lives in the closet through fear. While romantic friendships between women were perfectly acceptable throughout the late 1800s “and they could be private, by the time they were middle aged it was being redrawn as sick, perverted and that must have been woeful for them”. Throughout the 1970s and 80s the big question on the lips of those who studied these romantic friendships was “did they have sex?”, says Jane – the publication of the diaries of Anne Lister in 1988 finally answered that question. And the retelling of the story of Gentleman Jack on TV brought that world to the attention of a great many more interested parties.

Of course, throughout the early days of the fight for decriminalisation and well beyond, depictions of lesbians in popular culture were generally desperately depressing affairs. “Mostly there had to be an unhappy ending – even if it was the dog dying. Over the last 50 or 60 years of course there’s been a progression to a much freer and just socioeconomic situation.”

The pursuit of a more free and just society is high on Jane’s agenda and, among the many conferences and history-related events she is continually invited to, she is embarking on another project dear to her heart, working with the Lesbian Immigration Support Group in Greater Manchester. “The next thing I’m doing is some life history work with some lesbian asylum seekers. Their stories are not understood.” It occurred to her that being not only a woman but a lesbian and of colour the cards become ever more stacked against you in society, so she is determined to give these women a voice too.

“I don’t want to interview lesbian celebrities or people we all know about, but people who lived in the closet. I am interested in the stories of people who haven’t been told.”

Jane is one of the featured Sussex creatives in the Brighton & Hove LGBTQ Workers Forum portrait exhibition in Jubilee Library celebrating LGBTQ History Month in the city, exhibition runs until 29th February, free entry.

more info or buy Jane’s books here

www.charleston.org.uk/outing-the-past/

www.outingthepast.com

Twitter @JaneTraies

New York New York – So good they named it twice

web-300Jaq Bayles takes a big bite out of the Big Apple and digests the hidden gems of the city that never sleeps.

New York probably has more givens than any other city in the western world. So good they named it twice, concrete jungle where dreams are made of, never sleeps (wish we’d remembered that one when we were hanging around til 8am in our hotel room for somewhere to open where we could get a cup of tea), favoured date spot of King Kong.

But what about the stuff the songs and movies don’t tell you? A block is never as short as it looks on the map; a short-stack of pancakes is practically the height of the Empire State Building; you will get chatty with Irish bar staff who will insist on buying you drinks; you will get drunk – although not as drunk as the bride-to-be who is on the bar top pouring a bottle of wine all over herself. Oh, and if you go in February chances are it’ll be colder than The Day After Tomorrow.

However you approach it, the Big Apple offers more juicy bites of adventure than your average Granny Smith does sugar content, but where to begin?

Lobby of Empire State Building
Lobby of Empire State Building

My brief for this piece was to present five things to do in New York that don’t involve the Empire State Building. Practically impossible – I’ve already name-checked it twice and we’re under 200 words in… So let’s go against brief for a moment. You HAVE to do the ESB, and not just for the views, which are almost unparalleled (more of which coming). What you tend not to see in the movies is the interior – a knock-your-socks-off feat of Art Deco design. The main thing you don’t see from the ESB is… the ESB. But there’s one place you can go to remedy that – and other things that might ail you if you believe in the restorative qualities of alcohol.

web-600-4The Top of the Rock is widely billed as having the best 360° views in NY, given that it overlooks the ESB. But it will cost you $27 dollars to get to the observation deck at the summit of the 259m, 70-floor Rockefeller Centre. There are better options… Bar 65 Rockefeller Centre offers the same unobstructed views for the price of a cocktail, which start at $20. That’s the sneaky cheap way to do it, with added booze, but get there early as punters are catching on (it opens at 5pm).

Even when you can do them cheaper, some things you simply have to pay for. But if you’re on a budget, there are plenty of ways to do New York essentials for free.

 

Staten Island Ferry
Staten Island Ferry

Looking for Lady Liberty to shine her light on you but don’t want to fork out the $17 to get you up close and personal (plus the cost of the boat fare to get you there)? The Staten Island ferry is your free pass. The big red boats that run a constant Staten Island to-and-from service take you right past Liberty Island, with views every bit as good as those from the Circle Line tour. And did I mention the free-ness?

Lobby of Chrysler Building
Lobby of Chrysler Building

Need more of an Art Deco fix than Midtown’s ESB or Rockefeller Centre can deliver? Get your walking shoes on and head to nearby Grand Central station, with its fabulous vaulted ceiling, while just over the road the Chrysler Building rises up from its central lobby, Deco down to the floor tiles. Free, free, free.

Chelsea High-Line
Chelsea High-Line

Central Park? Free. But lord knows we’ve all seen enough of that on TV, so give your imagination a break and head to Chelsea where the High Line beckons – a one-and-a-half mile elevated section of a disused railway spur, redesigned and planted as an aerial park. It’ll give you views over Liberty Island too if you jump on near Chelsea Market, the giant urban food centre that’s as much a feast for the eyes as it is for the appetite. You don’t have to pay to look…

Flat Iron building
Flat Iron building

Not too far away there’s another feast for the eyes in the shape of the Flat Iron building. Indeed, it’s its shape that draws the crowds – an odd triangular effort that soars above Madison Square park (one of many New York spaces described as a ‘park’ that wouldn’t stand muster under a UK definition – mostly handkerchief-sized squares of scrubland with a smattering of benches), where you can admire the architecture over a Shake Shack burger at the original site of the chain that evolved from a hot dog-cart.

Which brings us on to ways of sustaining your calorific intake as you navigate those blocks that all look so tantalisingly close to one another on the map. If you’ve got deep pockets and like fine-dining, New York has no shortage of Michelin-starred eateries and popular brunch bars – but book ahead. If you’re dollar-light the choices aren’t lacking either – except in actual nutritional content.

Budget eating is as lacking in greenery as the parks, although we did see an egg-white omelette with broccoli go out of our favourite breakfast diner on one occasion. Indeed, 24-hour diners are cheap enough to be cheerful at any meal, as long as you only want to eat eggs, whether they’re over-easy, scrambled, boiled or whipped up into a pancake.

Most hotels, certainly in Midtown, don’t do breakfast, so diners are a good bet here. And if you happen to be heading back to your hotel, drunk after a night in one of those Irish bars? There’s no end of pizza joints that’ll serve you up a mega slice of your favourite toppings for a small amount of cash. You won’t remember the exact cost and you’ll probably wake up to pizza crusts at the foot of your bed, but at least you’ll have lined your stomach. Albeit after the event.

Guggenhiem
Guggenhiem

TRAVEL: Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands

Whether you want your head in the clouds, your legs astride the equator or your entire body in a tortoise shell, Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands have something for everyone says Jaq Bayles.

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With its rainforest, cloud forest, waterfalls and volcanoes, Ecuador crams more biodiversity into its tiny girth than many countries three times its size. Add in the architectural splendour of Spanish colonialism, and an intriguing backdrop of indigenous community life, and you have a breathtaking melting pot that will leave the most hardened traveller giddy with excitement.

Sandwiched between Peru and Colombia, Ecuador also lays claim to the stunning archipelago that is the Galapagos Islands, the wildlife of which is widely credited as the inspiration for Darwin’s theory of evolution – and if you’re going to South America, you may as well make the most of it.

Having been to Peru a few years ago, we had since regretted not doing the Galapagos while we were there, so needed an excuse to return. For the various reasons mentioned, Ecuador seemed like a good bet, and it certainly delivered. We opted for Intrepid Travel’s ‘Ecuador on a Shoestring’ trip – a cracking option if you’re on a budget and don’t mind the five-hour bus journeys and community lodge stays that go with it. In fact, travelling by bus through the country’s interior is pretty unbeatable for getting to grips with the incredible scenery – as you navigate roads decimated by landslides, your attention is diverted from the apocalyptic possibilities by volcanoes disappearing into clouds, waterfalls cascading down the mountains and valleys dropping way below you to tumbling rivers.

Quito
Quito

We began our trip in the high-altitude capital, Quito, the old town of which is a maze of cobbled streets dominated by vast colonial churches and museums, bursting with restaurants and alive with street stalls and shoe-shiners on a Sunday when the roads are closed to all traffic except bicycles. From there we took the five-hour journey to the rainforest city of Tena at the base of the Andes, from where a boat ride led us to the Kichwa community where we spent the next two days, exploring the jungle, learning how the locals live and sharing mealtimes with the resident (massive) tarantula.

At night, fireflies dance around your lodge and the sky is a wonderfully confusing conflagration of northern and southern constellations. By day, hiking through the forest brings revelations of the Kichwa community’s survival tactics, such as creating a bed that can become a backpack (for carrying the bodies of monkeys felled by poisoned darts) out of giant leaves, or feasting on ants that taste of lemons. All rounded off with tubing down the river – letting the current take you while you ride an inner tube.

Baños
Baños

If that’s all a little too back-to-nature for your holiday, head on over to Baños, a town of thermal springs surrounded by lush forest and a centre for every extreme watersport you can imagine. It’s also home to volcano Tungurahua, which decided to wake up while we were there, spitting fire and ash in a vast cloud over the town – WEB.300a once-in-a-lifetime spectacle for visitors. We were even issued with masks to guard against the ash fallout.

A backpacker destination, Baños is a lively, colourful little town, with more operators offering ziplining, white water rafting and canyoning excursions than you can shake a poisoned dart at. When in Baños… we went with both white water rafting and canyoning (abseiling down waterfalls) for the adrenalin rushes and couldn’t have been more impressed with the skills of the Geotours guides – wouldn’t hesitate to recommend them – while others in our party of nine went for the less stressful ‘activity’ of lounging in the hot springs and shopping.

Otavalo
Otavalo

From Baños it was back to Quito for an overnighter in yet another five-hour journey, then the next day on to Otavalo, a bustling market town which dates back to pre-Incan times where you can buy any manner of hand-crafted goods, from Panama hats to llama wool blankets to bracelets, belts and sandals – all for a snip (the currency in Ecuador is the dollar).

We spent another few days in Quito just wandering the streets, checking out the churches and museums, then got ourselves a guide to take us to the charming little cloud forest town of Mindo, home to more than 450 species of birds and the greatest concentration of humming birds in the country. Locals hang trays of sweetened water to attract the tiny, iridescent creatures and you can spend hours watching them dip and dive just a few inches from where you stand. A hike through the forest got us sightings of toucans, countless butterflies, orchids and the hilariously named Cock of the Rock (a bright red bird that dances on rocks in the mornings to attract a mate), as well as possibly the world’s most ill-thought out water slide – ending about 12m above a river strewn with boulders at low water. Needless to say we didn’t give it a go.

Moving on to the next part of our trip, we decamped to a hotel in the new town of Quito – the lively, if less charming hub of the capital where tourists rub shoulders over happy-hour cocktails and cheap pizzas and tacos. Just a note on the food front, Quito is not the gastro delight that, say, Lima is – it’s too far inland for the ceviche to be comfortable and Ecuadorian food is a tad bland, hence the ubiquitous bottles of chilli sauce that accompany every meal. We mostly ate (very good) Argentinian steak and Mexican food.

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From there it was a flight to Santa Cruz, the second largest of the Galapagos Islands and home of the famous giant tortoises. Man those critters are BIG. And if the point needed proving there were carapaces lying around that we could easily fit in.

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We spent a good few hours roaming with the tortoises in the wild, up to our knees in droppings and thankful of the wellies provided. It being the mating season there was a point when it looked like we might see some shell on shell action, but as we only had the one day we didn’t have the time to see it through…

Blue-Footed Boobies
Blue-Footed Boobies

Indeed, the time of year we were there (late November – there are no seasons in Ecuador other than wet and dry) was general mating season, so we got to see the Blue-Footed Boobies and Albatrosses choosing their lifetime mates and building nests on Isabela Island, while pelicans roamed the sands, sealion colonies nursed their pups on the shoreline and pilot whales frolicked offshore.

Transport through the islands was via boat and we moved at night in very lively water, so if you need your sleep that’s not necessarily recommended. But, on the upside, we got to go deep-water snorkelling in some stunning spots, including Devil’s Crown off beautiful Floreana Island, where green sea turtles and pink flamingos were nesting. Here we swam with turtles, sealions, seahorses, sharks and rays, through rocky outcrops of old volcanoes and amid shoal on shoal of brightly-coloured fish.

Marine Iguana
Marine Iguana

Everything you’ve heard about the wildlife in Galapagos having no fear is true. You’re told to keep a distance of at least seven feet between yourself and any of the creatures, but this is easier said than done when you’re practically tripping over sealions and marine iguanas at every turn. You can stroll through nesting colonies of the seabirds already mentioned and they don’t bat an eyelid, while the turtles are too busy trying to get ashore through the surf to care.

Sealions
Sealions

Another highlight was the snorkelling at the stunning Kicker Rock, also known as Léon Dormido (sleeping lion, because of its shape), which towers 500ft above the ocean and where the natural erosion has created a channel between the rocks that houses sharks and rays as well as the ever-present sealions and turtles, while frigate birds hover overhead.

Léon Dormido
Léon Dormido

The final island was San Cristobal, the archipelago’s administrative centre, the town of which is literally overrun with sealions. Here around the harbour they snooze in the middle of the road, lounge on street benches and lollop on the pavements.

The Galapagos is one of those places I’ve always wanted to visit but never thought I’d actually get to. If you have a thing for nature, it’s an absolute must, but visitor numbers are closely monitored to keep the human footprint down and preserve this remarkable place, and there are rumours it’s going to become even more tightly policed. This, of course, is a good thing – it also meant that at every stop we made, ours was the only group, and there were just 16 of us.

It doesn’t come cheap, of course, but you wouldn’t expect that for the trip of a lifetime. And if you’re thinking about going, bear in mind that you have to stump up $100 to gain entry to the national park – and that will likely be on top of anything you’ve already paid.

But, lighter of bank balance though we may be, this is a trip we will never forget.

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