Nigella Lawson is setting out on a national tour. She comes to Brighton Dome on Wednesday 24 November to discuss her latest book, Cook, Eat, Repeat. Here she talks about writing the book in lockdown, what we can expect from the tour and how to host the perfect dinner party.
How did Nigella, domestic goddess, cope with lockdown? “I am so aware that I am incredibly fortunate. Yes, of course this has been an anxiety-provoking time for everyone, but I had a roof over my head, a bit of outdoor space, food on my table, and work that I could do safely at home. (Indeed, I wrote Cook, Eat, Repeat during the first, long lockdown). I’m also very lucky that I enjoy solitude – so even though I spent several months alone, I didn’t ever feel lonely. Of course, it was hard not to be able to hug my children, but so many people really suffered, either with their health, facing their own illness and death, or that of those they love, and struggled to make ends meet, or had to risk their well-being by going to work, so I am just inordinately grateful.”
On writing her latest cookbook: “It’s hard to say exactly how long it took, because an essential part of writing a book (for me) is spent not writing it! I’d chosen the themes of my chapters, and I did most of the recipe testing and retesting (I am an obsessive tester and retester!) in 2019, but by the beginning of 2020, most of the recipes were still scribbles in my kitchen notebook, and needed to be typed up, which is not a straightforward process, as I often find I’ve left something crucial out of my notes, and so need to start testing all over again!”
Nigella singlehandedly improved the UK’s approach to food, a country that didn’t have a particularly illustrious culinary reputation. Bakeoff has also forced us to up our game. How does Nigella go about choosing recipes? “I wish I could tell you that there is any process at play here, but I just go on instinct. Of course, because of the title of the book, a lot of the decision-making was obvious: I chose recipes that, in one form or another, I return to often. But within that, I feel I just know in my heart which recipes clamour the most to be included. And as I started to realise that not everything would fit in, I have – and this is a bit of a regular step in all my books – what I call a Choose It or Lose It session. I select the recipes I can’t live without, and make sure they have the right home within the book’s structure, and then I see whether the recipes that remain on the list actually still belong in the book, and where they would go in it. If I can’t find the right place, it’s bye-bye (for now).”
Nigella’s writing certainly has literary flair. Will she ever write a novel (it would be guaranteed bestseller)? “When I was young, I certainly did want to write novels, but I know now that I’m not a novelist, and I feel that in writing about food does, in fact, take in so much of life. I feel I have found my métier and I have no ambition whatsoever to write a novel.”
As a hero to many, how does Nigella feel about her considerable public profile? “I have to say the concept of a role model is an alien one to me. I just don’t operate like that. On the whole, I feel that comparing oneself to others is not a healthy habit. And as for seeing myself as any kind of role model – well, I feel it’s even more inexplicable! I know it is meant kindly, and as a compliment, so I don’t wish in any way to be ungrateful – kindness is something I always appreciate – but the idea slightly flusters me!”
Nigella’s guide to the perfect dinner party: “Wear flat shoes (or none at all!); don’t do starters; and make sure there is enough on the menu that can be prepared in advance so that the evening isn’t made stressful by having to get everything ready as people arrive. And if I may add a 4th: remember that not everything has to be piping hot and ready at the same time.”
What can we expect from the live events? “This tour is really about the part food – and certain recipes – have played in my life, and that’s as much about the emotional resonance of food as flavour. I will also cover the to me very important theme of cooking for oneself. And I will certainly be talking about why I hate the term guilty pleasures!”
An Evening With Nigella Lawson is at Brighton Dome on Wednesday 24 November.
You must be logged in to post a comment.